No Do Overs: Taking On The Dirty Kanza

For those that don't know, the Dirty Kanza 200 is an unsupported race through the Flint Hills of Kansas, where riders leave Emporia at 6AM on a 200 mile race through two other towns before returning to Emporia. 95% of the race is on gravel roads (most with minimal maintenance) and the only support from teams is allowed in the 3 check points approximately 50 miles apart. Its typically hot and humid and most of the course is the definition of remote.

For some reason this sounded like a fun time after reading all of the stories and blogs from the last few years. Maybe not "fun" in the traditional sense.  More like fun in the challenge of finishing something this insane.  Two friends, John and Phillip, were also stupid enough to think this was a good idea and signed up with me. Phillip wised up and changed his entry to the 100 mile race a few days before the race (there’s always 1 in the group).

Added bonus: At 3 AM on the morning of the race, we were awaken by the thunder as a storm came through town and it poured rain for close to an hour.  When we woke up the sky was clearing and there wasn’t any standing water, so we figured we were good to go. We may have underestimated that slightly.

Granada Theater Sign-  This is the old time theater on Commercial Street in Emporia.  This is where the riders meeting, start and finish 

The view of the start.  We were back alongside the Granada Theater sign. Photo: Dave Leiker

The neutral roll out started right at 6 and we were led the local police down Commercial Street and by a few miles of people cheering everyone on from their front yards. Before long the cars pulled over and a UTV led the riders out onto the dirt and that's when all hell broke loose. I hear a gasp in the crowd and look to see rooster tails of water coming off the back of the Rhino. The entire first straight was under water. What was even more impressive was when the leaders (including Ted King) hit the water all we saw was a massive splash as they were going at a fast pace through the water. All I've heard is how fast the first 10 miles of the Dirty Kanza are, but that day the water slowed everyone down and caused a big bottle neck as most tried to stay on the small patch of road that was above the water.  A couple of us took advantage of this and rode through the water to try to get closer to the front group.

I found this shot on Instagram and this is right after we turned off the highway.  A few of us went to the right and passed a bunch of people through the water.  The first 8 miles consisted of this, mud, or very wet gravel. Photo: way_beyond_the_pale

6 miles in to the race we made a left turn and all I could see along the side of the trail was people with broken bikes. I was with a group of guys who were going good and figured we would work together for a while, but that was short lived as one by one their rear derailleurs were getting ripped off in the mud.

The mud section was maybe a half mile, but everything was happening in slow motion. The dirt didn't look like it was sticky mud, just usual dirt with water on top, but everywhere I looked there was someone holding up the back of their bike with a cable in the air and a derailleur hanging from the chain. Some were fixing them for single speed. Others were walking and already on the phone saying things like "Don't bother leaving the hotel. My day is done". 5 people broke derailleurs directly in front of me. One of the cages even flew up and hit me in the arm and I remember joking with someone that derailleurs were flying off bikes like dollar bills at a gentlemen’s club.

I would guess at least 50 (maybe more) were done for the day. By mile 9 the course was completely dry and, other than the stream crossings and a small section at the start of leg 2, we didn’t have any muddy sections the rest of the day. The damage was done however as we were muddy and soaking wet and our bikes looked like hell and our drive trains were already making noise.

The rest of the first leg was fast with amazing scenery, lots of people, and a knee deep creek crossing. I made it to Madison in 3 hours and spent less than 5 minutes in the first pit thanks to the help of my parents and wife who had everything dialed. Dad lubed the chain and my mom and wife filled the camel back and traded me food packets.

This is the lead pack at the first stream crossing. (Notice they are running). Photo: Dave Leiker

My pace through the first water crossing

The second leg is was where it started to hurt. This was the second longest leg at 54 miles, but had several long climbs. This was also where the wind started picking up. I struggled a bit on one climb and pulled over to regroup. I just told myself I had to take it easy, go slow and see how things shake out. That worked well and before I knew it I was feeling good and back to picking off riders and rolling into the second pit in Eureka.

Here's some random shots  from Dave Leiker that show how awesome the scenery was and that while Kansas is “flat”, there was A LOT of climbing (9500+ feet):

I felt pretty good as I rolled into the second stop around mile 103 and after another food exchange, A LOT of chain lube and more sunscreen I was heading out of Eureka ready to tackle another 100 or so miles of Kansas countryside.

This was where everything started to fall apart for me. Around mile 120 we turned directly into the wind and started heading back towards Madison. This was the longest leg (58 miles) and by now the temps were in the mid 80's with humidity and we dealt with a 20 mph headwind the entire way. At one point I was working pretty hard but was only moving at 9 mph on flat ground. About 45 minutes in I caught up to John who had left the pits a few minutes before me. It was clear he wasn’t doing well, so we exchanged pleasantries about how much things sucked and I rode on. We ended up going back and forth for the rest of the ride.

I caught up to him again about 10 miles from the third pit as he was sitting on the side of the road. We did the math and realized that with that stop, and as bad as we were both feeling, there was no way we would beat the sun. At this point, things just switched…. We struggled more, were more tired, and the wind was out of our sails. We were pretty sure (but not 100%) we’d finish, but the game had changed.  

This shot was early in the race.   I'm still somewhat smiling (and I'm covered in mud) as I am cresting one of the early climbs.

I have no idea when this one was taken, but it was later in the race.  Full suffer mode at this point.  Head is down, and if you look close there may be some drool.  Or is that a tear?  Maybe both?

During the third leg I had consumed every drop in a 3L Camelback and the majority of 2 large bottles, and still had 15 miles to the next pit. Thankfully, people were in their front yard cheering the race on and were offering to fill bottles for racers as they came by. They saved my race.

A rider takes rest in one of the stream crossings on the third leg.  I think this pic sums everything up.  Photo: Linda Guerrette

After an extended stop (15 minutes or so) in the third pit, we started the final 44 miles towards Emporia. Luckily, someone flipped the switch while we were in the pits and the wind stopped and the temperatures began to drop as the sun dropped out of the sky. The final leg was the shortest of the day and should have been the easiest, but I was struggling to eat.

Leaving the third pit.  Only 44 miles left!

I had been on the bike for about 12 hours and had consumed an unthinkable amount of hydration, gu’s and honey stingers. I knew I had to eat and was low on energy, but would dry-heave every time I thought about eating anything. The last 2 hours I resorted to breaking off a piece of Honey Stinger and swallowing it with water (like a pill). I would feel better within a few minutes, but would feel bad 20 minutes later and the whole process would start over again. John and I continued to stop a lot that leg to to try to eat and/or regroup with each other

Just outside of Emporia, I was admiring the awesome sunset and some guys I had been riding with earlier in the day came by in a pace line with 6 other riders and yelled “Jump on dude! We’re almost there!!!!!” I clicked up a couple of gears and before I knew it we heading down gravel roads at 20 mph and flying by other riders who weren’t strong enough to jump on. I hung on for a while but after a few close calls, I sat up. I figured I had ridden 200 miles at this point and there was no way in hell I was going to crash out less than 6 miles from the finish!!!!

Heading into Emporia was unlike anything I have ever experienced. We took a quick trip through the university and then dumped onto Commercial Street. This peaceful street we had been on all week and rolled out of town at 6 AM that morning was transformed into a total party. The last ¼ mile or so was lined with barricades and was completely jammed with people cheering waving cow bells.

15 hours and 36 minutes after roll out I crossed the finish line completely gassed. Thanks to my stomach being such a mess, it took everything I had to eat part of a quesadilla at Casa Ramos after the race. Those who know me well know how bad I must have been feeling to not be able to finish my food. I couldn't even handle a post race beer! The next morning I ate 2 breakfasts at the local diner. Clearly I was feeling better.

The promotors hang out at the finish to hand out the pint glasses and shake every finishers hand.

I can’t describe the feeling of relief I had as I crossed the line, shook hands with the promoter and took my pint glass and “200” sticker, and then signed the giant banner behind the finish. I have to stay I’m still in a bit of shock I 1) rode that long 2) avoided any and all problems with the bike all day and 3) FINISHED THE DIRTY KANZA 200!!

Thanks to my wife and parents for the pit support!!!

Strava Data: https://www.strava.com/activities/598764247

Of the 1000 riders that started, only 553 finished. I ended up 138th out of that group and missed “beating the sun” by just under an hour. At the riders meeting, they predicted this would be the fastest DK200 due to a course that was in really good condition and packed down, the leader would finish around 10 hours and there would be probably 200 riders that would beat the sun. In the end, Ted King won with a time of 12 hours, and only 91 riders beat the sun. The headwind had taken its toll.

Finishers get to sign the big Dirty Kanza banner.  A lot of people said I look really intense in this pic.  Its because I am focussed on 2 things: 1) holding my hand steady enough for people to be able to read what I wrote (it was shaking bad), and 2) Trying not to fall over backwards off the ladder....  like I ALMOST did as I climbed up before catching myself on the handrail.  I have a death grip on the scaffolding with my left hand. 

To anyone who has considered or thought about riding/racing it: DO IT. Give it a shot. I’ve done all kinds of events, races, and rides and I will say this is one hell of a special event. Emporia, Madison and Eureka basically shut down for the day and people were sitting in their front yard cheering us on as we rode by all day long. Euerka even rescheduled their local fair and parade to coincide with the running of this race! My wife said as they set up our pit on the main street, a full parade, complete with a marching band and Shriners on 3 wheelers, came through just before the leaders arrived. The locals and local businesses are REALLY into this event and make all racers feel like superstars.

I don't know what else to say other than the Dirty Kanza was the toughest, most grueling, and mentally challenging thing I have ever done.  Almost immediately people start asking if I would do it again.  My answer has been "Probably not". I endured several hours where I wondered if I should just give up instead of dealing with the heat, wind, pain, and fatigue and I’m not sure its something I want to do again in the future.